Cooking on heated stones goes back to primitive times but the ideas behind it are fun to explore today for chefs and home cooks alike. Food historian and author Francine Segan shares a few ideas for cooking on rocks that run hot and cold.

Baking stones in wood-fired and pizza ovens rely on the heat retaining qualities of rock, which has a radiance that is unequaled by steel or iron and can be used for preparing sizzling steak tableside. But rocks retain cold equally well. A clean, flat rock makes a perfect chilled platter for serving that will keep the food cool for a long time.

Bluestone, marble, granite, or Mexican beach pebbles can be used for this but be sure to scrub, wash, and boil them to sterilize the surface. Also, use silicone mitts and oven pads when moving hot stones and set them on a surface that will not scorch.

STEAK ON A STONE WITH ITALIAN "MOSTARDA"

Ingredients:
1 large flat cooking rock (about 12-by-12 inches by 1 ½ to 2 inches thick), well washed and dried
1 ½ pounds flank or loin steak, very thinly sliced
¼ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and pepper
1 cup apricot or peach jam
1-2 heaping tablespoons freshly grated horseradish, or 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
½ teaspoon yellow mustard seeds, slightly crushed
Fresh rosemary branches, optional

Directions:
1. Heat rock in oven or on grill at highest heat for 2 to 4 hours.

2. In shallow dish or platter, toss steak slices with olive oil and garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let sit 10 minutes.

3. Make mostarda by stirring jam, horseradish, and mustard seeds together in a bowl, until well combined.

4. Line a heat resistant platter with rosemary branches and put hot rock on top of them. Place platter with hot rock at center of table such that guests can reach it to cook steak slices.

5. With fork carefully put slices of meat on hot rock, cooking each side to desired doneness.

6. Use mostarda as a dipping sauce for the meat.

Serves 4.

STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM ON THE ROCKS

Ingredients:
1 large flat rock, washed and dried
12 large stem-on strawberries
1 cup mascarpone cheese
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, minced, plus more for garnish
2 tablespoons Demerrera or light brown sugar, for sprinkling

Directions:
1. Put rock in freezer for 8 hours or overnight.

2. When ready to serve, stir mascarpone and rosemary together until well combined.

3. Remove rock from freezer. Dollop mascarpone mixture onto cold rock. Garnish with sprinkle of rosemary and Demererra sugar.

4. Arrange strawberries on rock. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

Special Thanks:
Francine Segan, author of Shakespeare's Kitchen and The Opera Lover's Cookbook
http://www.francinesegan.com