Building » Making a Pine Bench
Making a Pine Bench
Making a Pine Bench

From work and picnic benches to bleacher seats at a ball game, this bench is an outdoor icon. This classic bench will find a use in any backyard.

Whether built of pine or hardwood, this bench is the perfect project to hone woodworking skills and to do as a father-and-son or mother-and-daughter project that will be around for years to come. While these benches are common, the details on this one - the arches on the legs, the angled ends on the seat rails, and the angled leg supports under the seat - show a level of craftsmanship which will leave any do-it-yourselfer feeling proud of the end result.

Materials:

One 1"x12"x8' pine board
One 1"x10"x8' pine board
2" wood screws
Four #10 brass wood screws, 1 ½" in length
Wood glue
3/8" wood dowel

Tools:

Table saw
Miter saw w/ finish blade
Jig saw
Drill
Countersink drill bit
3/8" drill for counterboring
Tape measure
Framers Square
Pencil
Clamps

Directions:

1. Use miter saw to cut 1"x12"x8' board to 72". Set aside short piece. Rip down 72" length with table saw to create seat 10 ¾" wide.

2. Use miter saw to cut 1"x10"x8' board to 68". Set aside short piece. Rip down 68" length with table saw to make two underside support rails each 3" wide. Set miter to 45 degrees and cut a decorative angle on ends of both rails. Start cut 1 ¼" down from the top edge of rail.

3. Use leftover board stock to make two legs, each 17 ¼" x 9 ¼".

4. Use jig saw to make notches at the top of both sides of legs, ¾"wide x 3" tall. Rails will sit on these notches.

5. Create arch detail at the bottom of both legs. Start and end of arch will be 1 ½" from the outer edges of the leg. Center of arch will be 2 ½" up from bottom of leg. Draw arch connecting these three points. Use jig saw to cut out arch.

6. Create angled supports between seat bottom and inside of leg, composed of a vertical base, horizontal base, and angled cross brace. Use remaining pine stock to create the following pieces: two 8 ¼"x3"pieces, two 9"x3"pieces, and two 6 ¾"x6 ¾"pieces. Chamfer at a 45 degree angle face edge of 8 ¼" sides and one 3" side of the 8 ¼" pieces. Starting 2" down from the top edge, add a 45 degree angle to cross braces by using miter saw to remove the corner of each 6 ¾" square.

7. Assemble angled supports and secure with wood glue and countersunk 2" screws. Butt un-chamfered 3" edge of 8 ¼" vertical base to the 3" end of the 9" horizontal base to create a 90 degree angle. Chamfered edges will be on the inside of the 90" corner. Inside the corner, attach the 6 ¾" angled cross brace, centered on the two bases.

8. With seat face down, dry fit rails and legs. Position rails 2" in from both ends of seat and ¾" in from sides. Position legs 6" in from each end with rails sitting flush in notches on legs.

9. Ensure legs are plumb (i.e. 90 degrees from seat bottom) and are square to rails, drill pilot holes, countersink, and screw rails to legs. Install angled supports in between the underside of the seat and the inside of the legs, drill pilot holes, countersink, and attach with 1 ½" brass wood screws.

10. Carefully flip the bench over and clamp seat to rails. 1 1/8" in from the side of the seat, mark screw locations for fastening the seat to rails at (from end) 3 ½", 10 ½", 1'11 ½", 3', 4' ½", 4'10", and 5'8 ½". Make a mark 6 3/8" from each end, centered on the seat (i.e. 5 3/8" from the edge), where wood screws will fasten the seat to legs. At all marked locations, drill pilot holes, counterbore to create countersinks for screwheads, and secure with 2" screws

11. Use wood glue and 3/8" wood dowels to plug all screw holes on seat face, cut flush, and sand.

12. Apply finish of choice.